Do I really need to prune my trees every year, or can I skip a season?
Look, I get it. Life gets busy, and sometimes you just want to put off another chore. But when it comes to tree pruning, skipping a year isn't usually a big deal for a mature, healthy tree. For younger trees, especially those you're trying to train into a specific shape or structure, consistent annual pruning is pretty important. It helps them develop a strong framework. For established trees, a good pruning every 2-3 years is often sufficient to maintain health and structure. If you've got a tree that's growing like crazy, or one that's recently been damaged by a storm – and we get some decent winds here in Lynwood, especially closer to the 710 – then you might need to step up the frequency. It all depends on the tree species, its age, and its overall condition. Don't just ignore it for five years, though; that's when you start seeing real problems.
What's the difference between 'thinning' and 'topping' a tree? Is one better than the other?
This is a big one, and it's where a lot of folks get confused, sometimes to the detriment of their trees. Thinning is what we call good pruning. It involves carefully removing specific branches to improve the tree's structure, increase light penetration, and allow better air circulation. We're looking to remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches, and sometimes a few healthy ones to achieve a more balanced canopy. It's done with an understanding of how the tree grows and what's best for its long-term health.
Topping, on the other hand, is basically tree mutilation. It's when someone cuts back a tree's main branches to stubs, often done to reduce the tree's height quickly. It's almost always a bad idea. Topping stresses the tree severely, creates ugly, weak regrowth that's prone to breaking, and can even lead to the tree's eventual death. It's a cheap, quick fix that creates long-term problems. If anyone suggests topping your tree, send them packing. We never top trees at Lynwood Tree Service; it's just not how we do things.
My neighbor's tree branches are hanging over my yard. Can I just cut them back myself?
This is a common issue, especially in older neighborhoods with mature trees, like the ones around Atlantic Avenue. Legally, you generally have the right to trim branches that extend over your property line, as long as you don't harm the tree itself. However, there's a big 'but' here. You can only prune up to your property line, and you can't prune in a way that would kill the tree or significantly damage its health. If your pruning causes the tree to die or become unstable, you could be liable for damages. My advice? Talk to your neighbor first. See if you can work something out. If that's not an option, or if the branches are large and require specialized equipment, it's always safer to call in a professional. We can assess the situation, prune the branches safely, and make sure the tree remains healthy, all while respecting property lines.
When is the absolute best time of year to prune my fruit trees versus my shade trees?
It's not a one-size-fits-all answer, because different trees have different needs. For most deciduous shade trees – the ones that lose their leaves in winter, like sycamores or oaks – the dormant season (late fall to early spring) is usually the best time. They're not actively growing, so it's less stressful for them, and you can clearly see their structure without leaves getting in the way. Plus, there's less risk of disease transmission and insect infestation during dormancy.
Fruit trees are a bit different. For most fruit trees, like your typical citrus here in Southern California, dormant pruning is also common to encourage good fruit production and structure. However, some fruit trees might benefit from light summer pruning to manage growth or remove suckers. It really depends on the specific type of fruit tree you have and what you're trying to achieve. If you're not sure, it's always best to ask someone who knows their stuff about local tree varieties.
What tools do I actually need if I want to do some light pruning myself?
For light pruning – think small branches, suckers, or dead twigs – you don't need a whole arsenal. A good pair of hand pruners (bypass pruners are usually best for clean cuts) is essential. For branches up to about 1.5 inches thick, a pair of loppers will save your hands. And for anything a bit thicker but still manageable from the ground, a pruning saw is your friend. Make sure all your tools are sharp and clean. Dull tools tear at the wood, which can create entry points for disease. And never, ever use hedge shears on tree branches; they're for hedges, not trees. If you're looking at anything that requires a ladder, a chainsaw, or any kind of climbing, that's when you put the tools down and call a pro.
I've heard about 'structural pruning' for young trees. What is it, and why should I care?
Structural pruning for young trees is like setting up a kid for success in life. You're giving them a good foundation. When a tree is young, we can make small cuts that have a huge impact on its future growth and stability. We're looking to establish a strong central leader (the main trunk), identify and promote good scaffold branches (the main limbs that will form the tree's crown), and remove any competing leaders or weak branches. This prevents future problems like co-dominant stems that can split, or branches that grow too close together and rub. It's an investment in your tree's long-term health, beauty, and safety. A tree that's structurally sound from a young age is less likely to need major, expensive corrective pruning later on, and it's more resistant to storm damage. It's especially important for trees that are going to get big, like the mature jacarandas you see all over Lynwood.
After pruning, should I put anything on the cuts, like a wound dressing?
This is a common misconception, and the short answer is: almost never. For most trees and most pruning cuts, wound dressings or 'tree paint' are actually more harmful than helpful. Trees have their own natural defense mechanisms to seal off wounds. Applying a dressing can trap moisture and pathogens against the wound, creating an ideal environment for decay and disease. It can also interfere with the tree's natural healing process. The only real exception might be for certain species that are highly susceptible to a specific disease that enters through fresh wounds, or in very specific situations recommended by a certified arborist. For 99% of the pruning you'll ever do or have done, leave the cuts alone. Just make sure your cuts are clean and proper.